Matt Weber
Home Improvement & Repairs magazine based in Birmingham, Alabama.
Find more at www.homeimprovementandrepairs.com.
As spring brings in more sunshine and warmth, it comes time to inspect your home for winter damage. If hidden problems go unaddressed, the damage will usually exacerbate over time.
Begin at the top and check the roof. Even down in the South, snow, ice buildup, strong winds, and fluctuating temperatures can loosen shingles, damage flashing, and expose the transitional areas around chimneys and vents. Minor repairs such as replacing a few shingles or resealing flashing may be enough to restore protection.
Roof inspection may require a professional, but you might find a reputable contractor who will conduct the inspection free of charge. DIY’ers might attempt to visually inspect the roof from atop a ladder, but if the roof is taller than a single story, it might be wise to call a pro. Alternatively, you can use a pair of binoculars, and these days, it is common to inspect the roof with a drone.
Next, check the siding, because hail, freeze-thaw cycles, and wind-driven debris can cause dents, dings and cracks. Wind and sun damage can loosen panels or warp sections of siding. Cosmetic damage may be annoying, but cracked or loosened pieces are prone to water intrusion and should be addressed immediately. Any water that penetrates the building envelope will cause further damage over time.
Although brick, vinyl, and metal siding are generally low-maintenance cladding options, certain types of siding must be maintained routinely. Natural wood siding requires regular sealing, staining, or painting to help prevent water and sun damage, and fiber cement (i.e. Hardie Board) requires recaulking over time to protect against moisture.
Windows and doors should be checked next, because they are among the most common sources of drafts and moisture leaks. Over the winter, seals can shrink, weatherstripping can deteriorate, and debris can build up in tracks, creating small openings that allow air and water to enter.
Seal any air leaks with new weather-stripping around windows and doors. Gaps in the non-moving joints around these areas should be sealed with caulk. Clean away any debris from the window tracks that might interfere with the seal. Don’t forget to check and seal any gaps around the garage door, which is often a problem area for drafts, moisture intrusion and insect entry.
A decorative option for exteriors is to use moisture-resistant trim made from PVC or polyurethane to seal cracks and gaps. Pro tip: If you use pressure-treated wood trim on house exteriors, make sure to prime and seal all sides and edges of the boards to protect from moisture—even the areas that will not be visible.
Protect your house foundation using a two-fold approach. Step one is to clean the gutters and downspouts of any leaves and debris that accumulated over winter. If the gutters get clogged, rainwater will overflow them and accumulate around the house foundation, which you don’t want.
Step two: Direct all rainwater at least 10 feet away from the foundation using downspout extensions and the slope of the grade. This will ensure water does not saturate the soil and increase hydrostatic pressure against foundation walls. Proper grading always drains away from the home, reducing the risk of settlement, damage and leaks.
This same principle of water management applies to all areas of your property. Water tends to flow downhill. If rainwater cannot go where you want it to go, then the water will inevitably go where you don’t want it to go. Clear any exterior drains that might be clogged from winter debris—even the roadside culvert inlets. Although those drainage areas should probably be maintained by a local municipality, if the drain hasn’t been serviced by the time a storm hits, then your yard may still get flooded, whether the drain maintenance was technically your job or not.